Tuesday, October 26, 2010

Learning About Burma...

A lot has happened in the last few days. On Sunday morning I checked into the hotel for the AJWS Orientation. There are 10 volunteers in total - five going to Phnom Phen, four of us in Chiang Mai, and one going to Mae Sot, Thailand. Normally I am not one to be enthusiastic and enjoying myself during orienation-like activities (icebreakers and "get to know you" games...)however I am finding this orientation to be very thought-provoking and well-prepared. My fellow volunteers and the AJWS leaders are all very interesting people with some incredible stories. There is one retired couple from Vancouver, BC (I will have my Canadian relatives know that I sought them out and introduced myself immediately upon reading their names and hometown on the volunteer list!) They have participated in AJWS Volunteer Corps on several placements in Africa for the past seven years. Another retired lady served in the Peace Corps in Africa and again in the West Indies. The younger volunteers (all older than myself) are incredibly smart, ambitious and friendly. It feels odd to say this, but I have already learned a lot from these people.




Yesterday we visited one of AJWS's grantees - a sustainable farm and school that brings young students across the border from Burma and teaches them about traditional, sustainable farming practices (and also a little bit of English). The students then return to Burma with the goal of creating their own small, sustainable farms to feed and empower their communities. They have a sort of alumni network within Burma, although it's hard for them to transfer information long distances, such as back to Thailand because of the dangers of the jungle, the SPDC and some of th armies of the ethnic groups. Within the country of Burma there are many smaller ethni minorities who are not Burmese but rather Karen, Karenni, Shan, etc (there are many, many groups!) Ethnic Burmese, or Burman, live mainly in the center planes and the vast majority of high SPDC leadership is Burman. The ethnic minorities live in an upside-down U-shape in the mountains surrounding the planes and are widely opposed to the SPDC (although exercising varying degrees of armed resistance.
One of the aspects of this particular NGO that I really liked was that they create a multi-ethnic experience for these young students, many of whom have never met a person from another ethnicity. It was so unbelievable to sit in their classroom and imagine them sneaking through the jungle and across the Thai/Burma border to come participate in this program. The more I'm learning about the conflict in Burma and particularily as it relates to Thailand and the relationship between Thailand and Burma the more interesting it becomes. Of course it's in the best interest of Thailand to not have to accommodate people fleeing across the border, however, they do not express strong opposition to the SPDC...a lot of blind eyes are turned I think.
To get back to my orienation, this evening we had dinner with representatives from the NGOs that we will be working with. Most people's NGOs sent one rep, mine sent three! It was a relief to meet some of the young women I'll be spending the next year with because they were so friendly and spoke incredible English. I am absolutely amazed by the amount of credibility and experience my NGO has, in fact I feel very under qualified to work there. The women live and breathe this work; it is literally their life. I believe it goes without saying that they don't make any money doing this work. Their passion is both inspiring and quite frankly, intimidating. That being said, I am very much looking forward to beginning my work and learning more about all things Burma!

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Welcome to Thailand, Have a Fly!

My first day in Thailand I woke up at around 7am. I'm here at the guest house with a girl named Rachel, a fellow AJWS volunteer from Palm Desert. Rachel and I met up at the airport in LAX because we had the same flight all the way to Chiang Mai. The Green Tulip Guest House came well recommended and is really a cute place. Very clean with a very nice English speaking staff who are eager to help you, feed you and show you where to go.



After breakfast, Rachel and I sent out on a walking tour of some wats (temples) recommended by Lonely Planet. Entering a wat is similar to entering a Catholic church somewhere in Europe - as you walk in, you're struck by the ornate beauty, gold everywhere and pious people (in this case, monks) going about their daily routine as if you and the 20 other tourists didn't exist. One very interesting thing, and something I've actually quite enjoyed, is that you take your shoes off and leave them along the stairs leading up to the wat. This is true in many places you go - our guest house for example is "shoeless." I like it because I don't think that we would ever do that at home (in fact, I know we wouldn't). People would be too worried about others stealing their shoes! And admittedly, that was my first reaction, "but what if someone takes my flip flops?!" but I quickly accepted that it was unlikely to happen...no one wants my worn, rubber sandals.


We continued walking and very quickly lost our way. Street signs here are unusual to come by and, as we soon discovered, perpendicular to the streets, not parallel. But we had nowhere to be and figured we couldn't wander too far so we just kept walking. For lunch we stopped at a little corner restaurant. I love it because all the shops and restaurants are open air, with just roofs and retractable garagedoor-like walls to close up at night. The menu had English on it, so we at least knew which meat we were ordering! We both ordered a curry dish upon being assured it would not be spicy (he let us taste it first because we didn't believe him). We were enjoying our food and quietly celebrating our first meal in Thailand, when I noticed something suspicious in my bowl. At first I thought it was a little pebble...then I noticed that this little pebble had wings! And, not only did it have wings, but it also had six little legs - three of which were floating around, unattached, in my curry. Using my chopstick skills, I fished out the dead little fly and his three other legs, placing them on a plate beside me. Rachel and I could not stop laughing and to be honest, I ate most of the rest of the curry! Oh well...



Feeling full and aching from our long plane ride, we decided to treat ourselves to a Thai massage. We had heard about the skilled women at the Chiang Mai Women's Correctional Facility who give massages as part of their rehabilitation program, so we decided to head over in that direction. As we approached the prison I turned to Rachel, "So what do you think they are in prison for?" She didn't have an answer, neither did I. The prison was very nice. It had a little cafe outside, which the women ran and it was surrounded by palm trees and greenery. We followed the "massage ->" signs and walked up to a dark cement building. A young couple were exiting the building outside, choosing their shoes from amongst the pile. "It's very nice" they assured us in Irish accents. We were escorted into a small, air-conditioned room with about five thick mats lined up in a row. There were several masseuses working on people who were wearing what looked like lime green and teal hospital scrubs. A lady took us into a little changing room in the back, gave us each a pair of the fashionable scrubs and showed us where the lockers were. After changing we went back out into the main room.


Now, usually when I have gotten massages in the past, I've spent about 15 minutes filling out consent forms and health forms, specifying my experience with massage, medical history and various aches and pains. Not this time. I laid down on a mat next to Rachel's mat and the lady began massaging and stretching my legs. Thai massage is very difference than say a Swedish massage. They stretch you in various ways and work a lot with their forearms and elbows. They incorporate their own bodies into the massage. At one point I found myself being flung backwards from a sitting position onto the masseuses belly so that I was actually laying on top of her...it was very bizarre but I enjoyed it.



After the hour massage, we paid (less than $6!) and started off to find our shoes, which we soon discovered were covered in water because it was now raining harder than I've ever seen in my life! We decided to wait it out until it let up a bit, but it became clear that it was not going to stop, so we decided to walk. Rachel had a compact umbrella in bag so we huddled under that and tried to quickly walk to the next main street to find a songtow (taxi-bus vehicles in which you hop in the covered but open back with other passengers - I found this picture to the right online) and after several minutes we finally found one. We climbed in and watched out the back as people maneuvered through the streets, which had turned into rivers at this point. Looking out the back of the songtow I felt like we were in a boat, the water was about two feet high at some points! When we got back to the guest house I was completely soaked - my hair, my shirt, even through to my secret passport/money necklace. We had plans to go to the nightmarket, but could barely step outside because of the rain. It rained all night, but when I woke up this morning, it was beautiful :)

Sunday, October 17, 2010

Bon voyage!

In less than 12 hours I will be boarding what will be the longest flight I’ve ever been on (13.5 hours) taking me from LA to Seoul, followed by another flight to Chiang Mai, Thailand. I’m both excited and incredibly nervous! The exposure I’ve had to Thailand was previously limited to movies such as The Beach and Brokedown Palace, which has haunted me since the first time I watched in five years ago…my obsessive Internet searches may not be soothing my nerves either. Yet I can’t help but have this warm feeling about my upcoming adventure. Everyone I have talked to who has traveled there gushes about the beautiful beaches, great food and friendly people. As I peruse the web I keep coming across the overwhelming presence of ex-pat blogs and travel websites talking about Thailand, the “land of smiles.”

In quick summary, I’ll be spending the next year of my life living in Chiang Mai, immersing myself in local Thai culture and the Burmese women’s rights movement that exists in Thailand. I am excited to meet this group of very passionate and brave women who have come together to promote women’s rights, human rights and political empowerment for Burmese women and families living both inside and outside of Burma. I’m going as a volunteer for a great organization based out of New York, American Jewish World Services, which is committed to promoting social justice and human rights throughout the developing world.

Burma, which has been ruled by a military junta since 1962, is recognized internationally as Myanmar (the military changed the country’s name in 1989). The past five decades have marked a debilitating rise in poverty and lack of civic and political rights, as the military has continued to implement extreme socialist policy and forced labor upon its citizens. As a result, Burma (as I will refer to it), has produced millions of refugees and migrant workers, many of whom end up in Thailand in hopes of making a better life for themselves and their families.

I’m nervous to go into this experience. Until recently, I am ashamed to say, I rarely thought about the plight of Burmese nationals. Many of the women I will be working with have seen and lived through atrocities that I cannot begin to identify with or explain. But I am inspired by their dedication to educating people about the importance of women’s rights and political activism.

I’m writing this blog with the intention of sharing stories and photos from my time abroad. In addition to that, I hope to share what I learn about the situation in Burma and women’s rights as well. I will miss everyone so much!